| Trips - Baggy Point |
Chris Haynes. Email: treasurer@warwickclimbingclub.co.uk
Lobbs Field Camping and Carvan Park, West Meadow Road, Braunton, EX33 1EB. Tel: 01271 812090.
Take the M5 south exiting at junction 27. Take the A361 signposted Barnstaple. On entering Barnstaple, stay on the A361, using the new bridge to avoid Barnstaple Town Centre. Still on the A361, follow signposts to Ilfracombe and Braunton. In the centre of Braunton turn left at the main traffic lights onto the B3231 towards Saunton. Stay on the Saunton Road. After just over 1 mile turn right into Lobb Fields, clearly marked on the right of the road.. The distance from Warwick 179 miles. See Map.
This trip is all about climbing at Baggy Point, which has climbs from diff to E5. This is probably the most popular crag on the Devon coast and offers excellent climbing on culm - metamorphosed sandstone - with good friction. Lots of friendly, well protected slab climbs mostly in S to E2 range with easy access. Must do routes that everyone should aim to tick include Scrattling Crack (VDiff), Shangri-La (Severe), Kinky Boots, (VS 4c) with its famous first move fall/leap across the zawn and Lost Horizon (VS 5a). Other routes that are highly recommended, which the brave and bold may attempt, include Midnight Cowboy (HVS 5a), Pickpocket (HVS 5b), Doors Of Perception (E1 5b) and Heart of the Sun (E2 5b). And if you fancy an E3 tick, then why not attempt Terrapin (E3 5b)!
Baggy Point is tidal for many of the climbs and many require an abseil descent. Tide timetables for the next seven days can be found here.
Lower Sharpnose Point. The grade range is MVS to E7. Long thin fins, facing both N and S (and some W). Bizarre construction but solid, and with a terrific concentration of hard face and crack climbs up to 150ft, with some tough 30ft testpieces for those lacking stamina. Many two- and three-star routes, such as The Smile (E1 5b), Pacemaker (E6 6b - the area's Lord Of The Flies) and Coronary Country (E7 6b).
Croyde has one of the finest surfing beaches in the UK. Producing high quality barrels throughout the tide; low tide being best, with the most powerful and dangerous break. Low tide is definitely not for beginners or intermediates! Even medium size low tide will break boards and bones!!
GuidebooksNorth Devon & Cornwall - Climbers Club (2000) |
MapsOS Explorer (139) Bideford, Ilfracombe & Barnstaple OS Landranger (180) Barnstaple & Ilfracombe |