Trips - Glencoe

Glencoe, Scotland. 24th February to 2nd March 2008

Organiser

Rob Lillywhite. Tel (home): 01926 499882. Email: trips@warwickclimbingclub.co.uk

Accommodation

Torren Cottages, Glencoe, Argyll, PH49 4HX. Tel 01855 811207

The club have booked two cottages, each of which sleeps a maximum of 6 people. Each cottage costs £495 so if all 6 places are filled, the cost will be £83 each for the whole week, which given that the cottages are equipped to a high standard is cheap! A security deposit of £250 is required for each cottage for the hire period which is the responsibility of the people sharing the cottage, rather than with the club. Payable on arrival.

The cottages are situated on the banks of the River Coe in the heart of the glen surrounded by 50 acres with mixed woodlands abundant with birds, butterflies, and deer. There is communal recreation shed with a large drying room and lockable racks for bicycles and canoes. The cottages are very nice, warm and comfortable and even have wireless internet access so you can check yours emails and the weather forecast.

The cottages are a 10 minute walk from the infamous, and downright dangerous, Clachaig Inn. Our trip coincides the Clachaig's February Fest which normally provides excellent music and multiple ales. Music on offer includes Tung 'n' Groove on Saturday 1st March, who apparently offer rockin' and poppin' old skool faves (!?). In addition there is a winter mountain navigation lecture on the Tuesday night. A report from last year's trip is here.

Glencoe village is a five minute drive down the hill and a general store, cafe, petrol station and outdoor shop. Ballachulish, a couple of minutes further down the road has a shop and bank.

Directions to the cottages

Get on the M6 and head north for a few hours. Keep heading north as the M6 changes to the A74, A74M and M74. In Glasgow, find the A82 over the Erskine bridge. Stay on the A82 for another couple of hours. Wake up when heading across Rannock Moor. Where the descent through Glen Coe starts to flatten out, take the minor road on the right signposted to Glencoe/the Clachaig. The Torren cottages are on the left a quarter of a mile pass the Clachaig. The distance from Warwick is 404 miles and will take between five and seven hours depending on your respect for the law and stops for cofee. See Map.


2003	2004	2007	2007

Climbing

The Glencoe trip is different to most of the other other trips we run, in that you need a decent background in hill walking and/or mountaineering to make the most of it - some climbs have a two to three hour approach walk! In addition, the normal 'pick and mix' approach to partners does not apply - if you want to come on this trip, make sure you are already teamed up with someone of similar experience and ambition.

Glencoe itself has enough climbing to keep you going for the whole week. At the head of the glen is Buchaille Etive Mor. The classic climbs here are Curved Ridge (II/III***) and Crowberry Gully (III/IV***). Going down the Glen, there is the Aonach Eagach (I***) ridge on one side and facing it The Lost Valley, Bidean nam Bian and Stob Coire nan Lochan; this contains many easier classics like Dorsal Arete (II***), Twisting Gully (III**), NC Gully (II*) and SC Gully (III***). All of these routes should be on your ticklist. Stob Coire nam Beth is just around the corner and has some nice long routes like Summit Route (II*) and North-West Gully (III**), both 450m long.

Ben Nevis is a half an hour drive away and has routes of every grade. Everyone if they are fit enough should do Tower Ridge (III*** 600m).

Aonach Mor is a couple of miles further on from Ben Nevis. The approach to the climbs is slightly easier since there is a gondola to take you up the first 600 metres thus reducing the walk in to about 1½ hours. The cliff base, above 1000 metres, at Coire an Lochain means that most routes come into condition rapidly and provide good climbing. Classic routes include Right Twin (II**), Left Twin (Grade III**), Morwind (III**) and White Shark (IV**).

Creag Meagaidh is situated North of Loch Laggan in the Moy Forest. It is a large and sprawling mountain, with an extensive summit plateau and several ridges that enclose a number of deep corries, the finest of these being Coire Ardair, which is over 3km long and 500 metres high. The cliff holds plenty of snow and the majority of the routes come into condition most winters. The approach is about 4 miles and will take between 2 and 3 hours under normal conditions. Classic Routes include Raeburns Gully (360m Grade I), Centre Post, (400m Grade III), Staghorn Gully (400m Grade III) and The Pumpkin (300m Grade V).

If the weather is truely foul, do not despair! Less than ten miles away is The Ice Factor. This contains amongst other things: the worlds biggest indoor ice wall, the Uk's highest articulated rock wall, sauna, bar and cafe.

Winter walking

If bagging Munro's in winter is your thing then you're spolit for choice. Within easy reach of the cottage are Buchaille Etive Mor, Bidean nam Bian, the Aonach Eagach ridge, the Mamores, the Blackmount and Ben Nevis.

Skiing

Glencoe Mountain Resort is a ten minute drive from the cottage and has sufficient skiing to keep you amused for a couple of days. It also has the added attraction of the Kings House Hotel for an apres ski beer. Aonach Mor Ski Area is half an hour from Glencoe and also has sufficient skiing for a couple of days.

Weather and Climbing Conditions

MWIS West Highlands - detailed 3 day forecast (recommended)

Weather.co.uk - 10 day outlook for Fort William

Met Office - Mountain forecast for the West Highlands

Avalanche Information - Sport Scotland Snow Conditions (recommended)

Abacus Mountaineering - Current climbing conditions

West Coast Moutain Guides - Current climbing conditions

Guidebooks

Glencoe - SMC (2002)

Ben Nevis - SMC (2004)

Scottish Winter Climbs - SMC (1996)

The Munros - SMC (1995)

Ben Nevis & Glen Coe - Chris Townsend (Collins, 2000)

Maps

OS Landranger (1:50,000): Ben Nevis, Fort William & Glencoe (41)

OS Explorer (1:25,000): Glencoe (384) and Ben Nevis & Fort William (392)

BMC (1:40,000): Ben Nevis and Glen Coe

Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000): Glencoe, and Ben Nevis

Warwick Climbing Club

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