| Trips - Lundy |
Rob Lillywhite. Email: trips@warwickclimbingclub.co.uk
Lundy Island lies in the Bristol Channel, about 11 miles off the coast of North Devon. Three miles long and half a mile wide, this granite outcrop rises 400 feet above sea level and is a place of outstanding natural beauty, with tremendous views of England, Wales and the Atlantic. There are three lighthouses (two in use), a castle, church, shop, tavern, working farm, several handsome houses and cottages and a population of about 18 people. Lundy offers a very rare experience. It is large enough to have a genuine life of its own, which visitors can share and enjoy, but small and far enough away to be a world apart and unspoilt. Activities on Lundy range from the adventurous, such as rock climbing or diving in the Marine Nature Reserve. Too the more gentle pursuits of bird watching, walking, socialising at the Marisco Tavern or simply relaxing in this remote and tranquil place.
The Barn, Lundy Island c/o Lundy Shore Office, The Quay, Bideford, Devon, EX39 2LY. Tel: 01271 863636
The club have booked "The Barn" bunkhouse for the week. The Barn is constructed of granite and was converted to a threshing house when the round house was added. It is now a most original hostel for 14 people, lined throughout with varnished wood, with six sleeping in the round house, and eight in the gallery, divided into elementary cubicles and possessing one of the best views on the island. It has a large tall living room with a big open fire, toilets and shower, a large kitchen, and is it at the centre of island life. Info for attendees is here.
The cost of the bunkhouse in 2007 was twelve hundred pounds so I expect that it will be close to twelve-fifty this time. If we fill the accommodation (14 people) this works out at about ninety pounds per person. To secure the booking the club have already paid a deposit with the balance due around Easter 2009. Since the balance has to be paid several months in advance of our trip, to secure your place you will need to make the full payment up front. Any one who commits to the trip but then pulls out will have their money refunded in full providing it is before the club pays the remaining balance. After that monies will only be returned at the committee´s discretion if the space can not be filled.
It's a bit of pain to get to Lundy, but worth it once you get there. First, you need to drive to Ifracombe and then catch the ferry to Lundy.
Take the M5 south exiting at junction 27. Take the A361 through Tiverton and Barnstaple to Ifracombe. Allow plenty of time (upwards of 5hrs) since based on our experience in 2007, traffic will be heavy and slow and millions of caravans will try and impede your progress. You will need to make arrangements to park your car for the week. The distance from Warwick 203 miles.
The ferry, MS Oldenburg, runs from Ilfracombe to Lundy and has on board a bar, buffet, shop and information centre. The bar offers a wide range of drinks and a relaxing atmosphere, whist hot and cold food is provided at the buffet. The return ferry journey needs to be booked and cost £54 in 2007. NOTE: there is a weight restriction of 20kg of luggage per person, which can be placed in the ship´s hold (although nobody was checking in 2007).
The climbing on Lundy is mostly found on the granite cliffs of the rugged, wave pounded, West Coast with grades ranging from Diff to E7. Most routes are multi pitch and can be very atmospheric - from the 400 foot slab of Devils Slide to 300 foot deep zawns, sea stacks and jamming cracks. All the climbing is within walking distance from the tiny village that forms the hub of the island. Many of the routes are tidal and it is worth remembering that after the Bay of Fundy in Canada, Lundy has the second biggest tidal range in the World - around 9 meters! Tide timetables for the next seven days can be found here.
There is a 250 page guidebook listing all the climbs that can be found on the sea-cliffs of Lundy however listed below are a number of the classic lines, which I hope wets the appetite for more.
Near the accommodation on the island are Landing Craft Bay and Sunset Promontory, which are home to a high concentration of quality climbs throughout the grade range. These include the classics Eclipse (VS 4b), Shamrock (VS 4c), Formula One (HVS 5a) and the Indy 500 (E1 5b).
The Flying Buttress is a superb piece of rock architecture and one of Lundy´s outstanding coastal features; a huge monolith leaning against the mainland, forming a giant natural arch. Several high quality routes including The Flying Buttress (M), Battery Rib (VDiff), Diamond Solitaire (VS 4c) and Double Diamond (HVS 5b) can be found here.
Needle Rock is a superb sea-stack that provides fine climbing in a delightful and atmospheric environment including The Ordinary Route (VDiff) and Integrity (Severe).
Probably the most famous place to climb on Lundy is the world renowned Devil´s Slide, a magnificent sweep of orange and black streaked granite that rises majestically out of the Atlantic Ocean. This 400 foot slab is home to several classic climbs but three that must be attempted are, Devil's Slide (HS 4a), Albion (VS 4c) and Satan's Slip (E1 5a).
GuidebooksLundy - Climbers Club (1994) |
MapsOS Explorer (139) Bideford, Ilfracombe & Barnstaple OS Landranger (180) Barnstaple & Ilfracombe |