Clwyd, 14th & 15th June 2008

Rob Lillywhite. Tel (home): 01926 499882 or email: trips@warwickclimbingclub.co.uk

Wern Isaf Farm, Wern Road, Llangollen, LL20 8DU, Tel: 01978 860632
Cost is about £5.00 per person per night.

Follow the M6 north-west and leave at junction 10a on the M54. Continue west on the M54 and then A5 via Shrewsbury and Oswestry to Llangollen. Turn right at the traffic lights and head down Castle Street crossing over the river. Turn right and then left and take the road at the back of the Bridge End Hotel. Go over the Canal Bridge and turn right and follow the road for 1km to Wern Isaf Farm. The distance from Warwick is 100 miles. See Map.

The climbing is on a long line of horizontally-banded limestone escarpments that rim the eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley, a tranquil and secluded spot situated to the north of Llangollen. The cliffs in this valley offer climbing ranging from traditionally protected low-grade lines, too hard classics and plenty of sport climbing. There are over 800 routes to go and attempt at numerous crags. A selection of the larger crags can be seen below;

Worlds End offers a good selection of single-pitch routes up to 25 metres from Diff to the high `E´ Numbers. Must do´s include Inelegance (** VD), Incompetence (** HVD), Jennifer Crack (** HS), Finer Feelings (** HVS), Intensity (** HVS) and Fall Out (*** E1).

The Twilight Zone is the collective name for two small, interesting limestone buttresses in close vicinity too each other. Some of the best quality limestone in the Eglwyseg Valley can be found here, with everything from smooth slabs to wild roof climbing. Highlights include Loran (* S), Funeral Corner (** HS), Sunday Driver (* VS) and Stay Alert Malcolm (* HVS).

Dinbren offers excellent rock, and the climbs include some of the best (and hardest) in the area. Highlights include Sally in Pink (* VS), Astrola (* VS), Yale (* HVS), Goblin Girls (* HVS) and Alison (** E1).

Clwyd Limestone - Rockfax (2005)

I suppose these days there has to be a disclaimer, so: Warwick Climbing Club recognises that climbing, mountaineering, mountain biking and the like are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.