Lleyn & Tremadog, 22nd to 25th August 2008

Dave Button. Email: secretary@warwickclimbingclub.co.uk

Black Rock Sands Caravan and Camping Park, Morfa Bychan, Porthmadog, Gwynedd, LL49 9YH. Tel: 01766 513919.

The campsite is situated next to a sprawling sandy beach, that is ideal for bathing, boating and water sports.

Follow the M6 north-west and leave at junction 10a on the M54. Continue west on the M54 and then A5 until Shrewsbury. From the Shrewsbury, you have a choice of ways to get to Porthmadog. The first option is to take the A458 towards Welshpool and Dolgellau and then turn north and follow the A470 to Porthmadog. Alternatively, stay on the A5 to Betws-y-Coed and then take the A470 south and west through Blaenau Ffestiniog to Porthmadog. Entering Porthmadog main street, turn up the road beside Woolworths. Continue on that road for 3 miles, through the village of Morfa Bychan, until just before the yellow and black barrier denoting vehicular entrance to beach. Turn right and Black Rock Sands is 150 yards along on the left. The distance from Warwick (via Dolgellau) is 151 miles. See Map.

A lot of different climbing areas can be accessed from Porthmadog. The whole of the Lleyn Peninsula lies to the west, the cliffs of Tremadog lie just to the east and the central Snowdonia mountains lie to the north.

Tremadog is a bit of an anomoly in Wales, since the sun always shines. When the rest of Snowdonia is rain soaked, Tremadog basks in sunshine. We kid you not! The climbing at Tremadog is spread over four cliffs but life is centred on Eric's caff. The rock is a form of dolerite and provides routes of all grades and tastes; thruchy chimneys, clean cut aretes, beetling overhangs and blank slabs. The friction on some of the routes is superb, even on those climbs that suffer a tremendous amount of traffic, the rock has not polished up too badly. The four cliffs contain some of the best breadth of grades and assortment of climbing in the area, everyone will be able to find something at their standard - depending upon their taste.

Craig Bwlch y Moch. The main event - one of the best crags in Wales, with multi-pitch routes up to 250ft. Lots of routes to go at including Christmas Curry (S), Valerie's Rib (HS), One step in the clouds (VS 4c), Merlin Direct (HVS), The Plum (E1 5b) and the unbeatable Vector (E2 5c). Gear up at the caff, cross the road to your climb and return to the caff for a brew when you're done - for those of you that don't like long walk-ins, this is the crag for you!

Craig Pant Ifan. The crag that is always warm and often dry when clouds hang over the Llanberis Pass a few miles away. Plenty of routes at VS and above, including the excellent Scratch Arete (HVS) but little below VS, but the other Tremadog crags have plenty of those.

Craig y Castell. Some great classics in the lower grades on perfect rock; tends also to be quiet. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft such as the wonderful Creagh Dhu Wall (HS 4b), One Step in the Crowds (E1 5b), The Wasp (E2 5c), Tensor (E2 6a) and Pellegra (E3 6a).

The sea cliffs of the Lleyn Peninsula provides some of the most adventurous climbing in North Wales. Some of the descents are said to be more gripping than the climbs themselves! Routes such as Vulture and Path to Rome at Cilan Head have long been recognised as classic adventure routes. Others such as Fantan B on Craig y Llam (in The Rivals) and Samurai at Tyn y Towyn Quarries have also become popular amongst those seeking something different. Article by Pat Littlejohn on climbing on the Lleyn Peninsula.

If you must. The UK's finest mountain biking is to be found at Coed-y-Brenin, which is a 25 minutes drive south from Porthmadog.

Tremadog - Climbers Club (2000)
Lleyn - Climbers Club (2002)
North Wales Rock - Ground Up (2007)

I suppose these days there has to be a disclaimer, so: Warwick Climbing Club recognises that climbing, mountaineering, mountain biking and the like are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.